Food past its imagined prime can surprise us, like the “vintage carrot” René Redzepi started serving at Noma in Copenhagen in 2009. Now, forward-thinking chefs are finding the shock of the new in what is quite literally old. Even a fragile macaron, which looks like it might fossilize within an hour of existence, must be left a day or two after baking to give it that classic seesaw of crackle and deflation, shatter and chew. We ask sushi chefs, “What’s fresh today?” Yet some fish, notably tuna, needs time for the flesh to relax, and may not be considered fit to present to a diner until it’s rested two weeks or more. What is more human than refusing to accept things as they are, than believing we can make them better? If fresh food affirms the splendor of the natural world, aged food speaks to human ingenuity. When ripeness is so exalted, cooking is corruption.īut sometimes an ingredient can be too young, callow - as yet uncommitted in flavor. We clamor for restaurants where the vegetables on the plate arrive in the kitchen caked in dirt, uprooted from a farm within 100 miles or, better yet, the chef’s backyard. This week, we’ve unfortunately added: Jing Fong, The Original Sandwich Shoppee, and more.IN FOOD, AS IN LIFE, we prize what is young and unsullied by time: tiny wild blueberries that drop off the bush with the slightest tug a sea urchin pried from a rock and gulped down on the beach an egg still warm from the nest. Sign up for East Village Mutual Aid Group volunteer program here (and if you’re a restaurant worker who wants help getting an appointment, you can fill out this form). You can also volunteer to make vaccine appointments for restaurant workers who aren’t able to dedicate the time searching for open slots. If you know a place that should be included, please send an email to if you’re looking for ways to show support for your favorite restaurants and their staff, tip as well as you can when you order takeout or dine in-person.
Here is a running list of all the spots that have closed during the pandemic, divided by neighborhood. The shutdown, reopening at reduced capacity, and concerns for health and safety have forced many to close their doors permanently.Īll have been affected - from favorite neighborhood spots to bars where you once drank way too much on your birthday. Even though new places continue to open, this is an incredibly challenging time for restaurants.
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